In 2018 I attended two Soapmakers events. The 2018 Pittsburgh Soapmakers Gathering in Pittsburgh, PA and the 2018 North East Bubbles and Blazes Gathering in Goshen, NY. I had the opportunity to reconnect with some old friends and make some new friends. Overall I had a good time at both events and learned a lot.
The worlds of Soaping, Aromatherapy, Herbalism and Cosmetics Making are literally endless. I believe you can study one item for a lifetime and still have barely touched the surface. How awesome are the foundational components for all that we humans make, considering that these substances were created at the very beginning of time by God the Creator, who is often identified as the great “I AM”. I think it is amazing how one item can have so many functions across so many disciplines.
During these events, participants are blessed with goodie items from various vendors. At both events I received full size bottles of fragrance oils from Nature’s Garden. I am familiar with the company and researched how the fragrance oils are being used in recipes. As I was scanning the recipe files I came across Patchouli Infused Hair Conditioner. Well I did not have any Patchouli Infused Oil on hand, but I did have Lavender Infused Olive Oil and some other ingredients for making Hair Conditioner. This fell in line with my goals for the Lavender Project, (hair conditioner is on my list of items to make) and in less than a week I will have an appointment with my Loc-technician. Perfect timing!!! Don’t you love it? Two snaps and a twist for Nature’s Garden. I am inspired.
Tips before Starting: Here’s the link to “Standard Operating Procedures” http://blog.deganyaaromatics.com/standard-operating-procedures-for-making-products/ for making products at home or for sale. I will periodically update this page as I learn more good stuff.
- Heat proof container you will need 3
- Cling Wrap
- Bowls – glass or stainless steel
- Small for essential oil blend and preservative
- Large for blending hair conditioner
- Large Pot, big enough to fit all your heat proof containers; or one pot per heat proof container, whichever works for you
- Utensils for stirring/mixing
- Stick Blender
- Funnel or piping bag
- Heat Sensitive Thermostat
- Dropper or Pipette (for measuring essential oils)
- Measuring cups
- Heat proof gloves or pot holder
- Clean shatter proof bottles, caps and lid for packaging
- Blank label (include conditioner’s name, ingredients used in weight order, best used by date)
Read through the recipe and directions at least one time before starting.
To convert the recipe into grams, multiply number of ounces by 28.394
There are 28.394 grams in an ounce
.5 ounces x 28.394 = 14.20 grams (rounding off)
To convert the recipe from ounces to grams
1 gram = 0.035 oz (rounding off)
# grams/weight of an ounce
10g/28.394 = .35 ounces
|220||Distilled water – void of many impurities found in tap water|
|25||Distilled water, this will replace water lost during the heat phase|
|200||Aloe Vera Liquid – is known to promote hair growth and assist with reducing itchy scalp|
|25||BTMS or BTMS 25 – emulsifying conditioner and detangler|
|20||Vegetable Glycerin known as a wonderful moisturizer|
|12||Lavender Essential Oil – known for moisturizing hair and scalp and relieving itchiness.|
|10||Lavender Infused Olive Oil –Lavender Infusion Oil Link|
|10||Argan Oil – gives hair shine; gives curls definition and great for split ends|
|5||Vitamin E – wonderful anti-oxidant|
|3||Rosemary Essential Oil – known for strengthening hair|
|2||Allantoin – soothing to the scalp|
|2.5||Liquid Germall Plus – board spectrum perseverative, a must for water based products. Using at the maximum rate .5% . Total weight of finished product 497 grams – .5% of 497 is 2.5 grams|
Pre measuring Essential Oil and Preservative
In a clean container measure out
- 12 grams Lavender Essential Oil
- 3 grams Rosemary Essential Oil
- Combine the Essential Oils and gently swirl
- Place to the side until ready to use
In a clean container
- Measure out 2.5 grams Liquid Germall Plus
- Place to the side until ready to use
Making the Lavender Infused Hair Conditioner involves 4 phases
- Distilled Water (220 grams)
- Aloe Vera Liquid (200 grams)
- Vegetable Glycerin (20 grams)
- Allantoin (2 grams)
- Distilled Water (25 grams)
- Create a water bath
- Place a few inches of water in the bottom of the pot
- Optional – Place 2 heat proof tops in bottom of the pot, make sure the tops are wide enough to support the width of the jar
- Place empty heat proof containers on the scale
- Record the weight of the empty jar (Mine 419 grams)
- Hit the Tare button, this will set the weight to zero
- Fill the jar with 220 grams of distilled water
- Tare, reset to zero.
- Add to the Distilled Water 200 grams Aloe Vera Liquid.
- Tare, reset to zero
- Add to the Distilled Water and Aloe Vera 20 grams of Vegetable Glycerin
- If your scale does not allow for 5 grams or less, do not Tare; simply add 2 grams Allantoin to the container
- If your scale allows for 5 grams or less, Tare as in the above, as illustrated in step 4The total weight of my jar plus its contents is 861 grams. The total weight of my content is (Weight of jar + product in the jar) – (Weight of empty jar) = Weight of ingredients that will be combined with the oil phase
861 grams – 491 grams = 442 grams
- Cover the top of the jar with Cling Wrap, this will help with preventing water from evaporating.
- Place the jar with ingredients in the pot.
- Use a low to medium flame, allow the ingredients to come to a temperate of 156 degrees Fahrenheit for 20 minutes. This process is referred to as “holding”. The purpose of holding the temperature for 20 minutes is to destroy bacteria
- DO NOT boil or Over Heat
In a separate heat proof container measure out Distilled Water (25 grams). Cover as instructed in the above paragraph item #1. Heat as in the above paragraph items #2, #3 and #4. This is the replacement water for the water that will evaporate during the water phase. If you do not use this water, do not throw it away. Allow it to cool and freeze for another project.
- BTMS or BTMS 25 (25 grams)
- Lavender Infused Olive Oil (10 grams)
- Argan Oil (10 grams)
- Vitamin E (5 grams)
- Combine in heat proof container BTMS, Lavender Infused Olive Oil, Argan Oil and Vitamin E. To weight each ingredient appropriately follow the weighting and taring process illustrated in the Water Phase above
- Place container in water bath.
- Allow Oils to melt
- Heat Oil phase until BTMS is melted, try to keep the temperature around 140 degrees, but a bit higher is okay. (I find when working with small quantities the blend solidifies quickly.)
- Combining Water and Oil Phases
- Once the Water Phase has been maintained for 20 minutes allow the Water Blend to cool down to 140 degrees Fahrenheit same temperature as the Oil Phase. Cooling down also applies to the 25 grams of distilled water. If the temperatures are off by 5-10 degrees things should still be okay. The blending of water and oil work best when temperature for both phases are the same or within a few degrees of each other.
- Place the empty bowl on the scale – Tare for zero weight
- Pour Water Phase Blend into the bowl. Due to evaporation the amount of water blend poured into the bowl is less than what you started with, see #5 under the Water Phase ( I started with 442 grams)
- Remember the additional 25 gram of water? Now is the time to use it. Add some of the distilled water to the Water Phase Blend in the bowl until the original weight of the Water Phase Blend is obtained. (If you do not add the additional water, the Hair Conditioner may be too thick for bottling, if that happens use a clean shatter proof jar for the conditioner instead.)
- Once the amount of Water Phase Blend is obtained place the Stick Blender into the bowl
- While pouring the Oil Phase Blend into the Water Phase Blend start slowly stick blending
- Continue to stick blend for several minutes. Scrape the side of the bowl with a spatula if necessary. The mixture will turn white. This means emulsion has occurred. This process only takes a few minutes. Water and Oils should not separate.
- Cool Down Phase
- Check the temperature of the Hair Conditioner
- If over 120 degrees Fahrenheit, let he Hair Condition sit for a few minutes until the temperature comes down
- Add the Liquid Germall Plus (LGP) when the temperature is 120 degrees Fahrenheit or below. Any hotter than 120 degrees Fahrenheit, then the effectiveness LGP is compromised. Stir well or stick blend for a few short burst to ensure LGP is fully incorporated
- Add in your essential oil blend, gently stirring until fully incorporated
- Using a funnel or piping bag pour the Hair Conditioner into bottles. To avoid condensation in the bottle allow the Hair Condition to cool overnight.
- My yield 3 – 3.15oz bottles (blue), 8-1.15oz sample bottles (natural). Should have been a bit more, some got on the table not in the bottle.
- Sometimes the process can be a little messy. A bit to clean up but not a lot
- Place cap on bottle after Hair Conditioner has cooled
- Label bottle, include product name, ingredients, how to use and best used by date
Thank you for taking the time to read this tutorial. A few more notes
- Depending on your hair type, the oils used may not be suitable; for example, Olive Oil may be too heavy for your hair. If that is the case change the oil to fit your hair type.
- If you try this recipe, let me know how you made out. I would like to hear your feedback
- If you decide to use this recipe for selling
- Please follow Good Manufacturing Practices
- Follow FDA Guidelines for correct product labeling and description
The 4 Uses:
- Use as a stay in conditioner after shampooing
- Use as a wash out conditioner after shampooing
- Use as a hair lotion for locs, twists, braids any natural hair style
- Use as a scalp moisturizer, a lot lighter than hair pomade