Lavender Project: Part 2 – Lavender Infused Hair Conditioner 4N1 Uses

In 2018 I attended two Soapmakers events.  The 2018 Pittsburgh Soapmakers Gathering in Pittsburgh, PA and the 2018 North East Bubbles and Blazes Gathering in Goshen, NY.  I had the opportunity to reconnect with some old friends and make some new friends. Overall I had a good time at both events and learned a lot.

The worlds of Soaping, Aromatherapy, Herbalism and Cosmetics Making are literally endless. I believe you can study one item for a lifetime and still have barely touched the surface. How awesome are the foundational components for all that we humans make, considering that these substances were created at the very beginning of time by God the Creator, who is often identified as the great “I AM”. I think it is amazing how one item can have so many functions across so many disciplines.

During these events, participants are blessed with goodie items from various vendors. At both events I received full size bottles of fragrance oils from Nature’s Garden. I am familiar with the company and researched how the fragrance oils are being used in recipes.  As I was scanning the recipe files I came across Patchouli Infused Hair Conditioner. Well I did not have any Patchouli Infused Oil on hand, but I did have Lavender Infused Olive Oil and some other ingredients for making Hair Conditioner. This fell in line with my goals for the Lavender Project, (hair conditioner is on my list of items to make) and in less than a week I will have an appointment with my Loc-technician.  Perfect timing!!!  Don’t you love it?  Two snaps and a twist for Nature’s Garden. I am inspired.

 Tips before Starting: Here’s the link to “Standard Operating Procedures” https://blog.deganyaaromatics.com/standard-operating-procedures-for-making-products/ for making products at home or for sale.  I will periodically update this page as I learn more good stuff.

Equipment:

  • Scale
  • Paper
  • Pen
  • Heat proof container you will need 3
  • Cling Wrap
  • Bowls – glass or stainless steel
    • Small for essential oil blend and preservative
    • Large for blending hair conditioner
  • Large Pot, big enough to fit all your heat proof containers; or one pot per heat proof container, whichever works for you
  • Utensils for stirring/mixing
  • Stick Blender
  • Funnel or piping bag
  • Heat Sensitive Thermostat
  • Dropper or Pipette (for measuring essential oils)
  • Measuring cups
  • Heat proof gloves or pot holder
  • Clean shatter proof bottles, caps and lid for packaging
  • Blank label (include conditioner’s name, ingredients used in weight order, best used by date)

Recipe:

 Read through the recipe and directions at least one time before starting.

To convert the recipe into grams, multiply number of ounces by 28.394

There are 28.394 grams in an ounce

For example

.5 ounces x 28.394 = 14.20 grams (rounding off)

To convert the recipe from ounces to grams

1 gram = 0.035 oz (rounding off)

# grams/weight of an ounce

10g/28.394 = .35 ounces

Ingredients:

Grams Ingredient
220 Distilled water – void of many impurities found in tap water
25 Distilled water, this will replace water lost during the heat phase
200 Aloe Vera Liquid – is known to promote hair growth and assist with reducing itchy scalp
25 BTMS or BTMS 25 – emulsifying conditioner and detangler
20 Vegetable Glycerin known as a wonderful moisturizer
12 Lavender Essential Oil – known for moisturizing hair and scalp and relieving itchiness.
10 Lavender Infused Olive Oil  –Lavender Infusion Oil Link
10 Argan Oil  – gives hair shine; gives curls definition and great for split ends
5 Vitamin E – wonderful anti-oxidant
3 Rosemary Essential Oil – known for strengthening hair
2 Allantoin – soothing to the scalp
2.5 Liquid Germall Plus – board spectrum perseverative, a must for water based products.  Using at the maximum rate .5% . Total weight of finished product 497 grams – .5% of 497 is 2.5 grams

Pre measuring Essential Oil and Preservative

In a clean container measure out

  • 12 grams Lavender Essential Oil
  • 3 grams Rosemary Essential Oil
  • Combine the Essential Oils and gently swirl
  • Place to the side until ready to use

In a clean container

  • Measure out 2.5 grams Liquid Germall Plus
  • Place to the side until ready to use

Making the Lavender Infused Hair Conditioner involves 4 phases

Water Phase

  • Distilled Water (220 grams)
  • Aloe Vera Liquid (200 grams)
  • Vegetable Glycerin (20 grams)
  • Allantoin (2 grams)
  • Distilled Water (25 grams)
  • Create a water bath
    • Place a few inches of water in the bottom of the pot
    • Optional – Place 2 heat proof tops in bottom of the pot, make sure the tops are wide enough to support the width of the jar

  • Place empty heat proof containers on the scale
    • Record the weight of the empty jar (Mine 419 grams)
    • Hit the Tare button, this will set the weight to zero
  • Fill the jar with 220 grams of distilled water
    • Tare, reset to zero.
  • Add to the Distilled Water 200 grams Aloe Vera Liquid.
    • Tare, reset to zero
    • Add to the Distilled Water and Aloe Vera 20 grams of Vegetable Glycerin
    • If your scale does not allow for 5 grams or less, do not Tare;  simply add 2 grams Allantoin to the container
    • If your scale allows for 5 grams or less, Tare as in the above, as illustrated in step 4The total weight of my jar plus its contents is 861 grams. The total weight of my content is (Weight of jar + product in the jar) – (Weight of empty jar) = Weight of ingredients that will be combined with the oil phase

861 grams – 491 grams = 442 grams

  1. Cover the top of the jar with Cling Wrap, this will help with preventing water from evaporating.
  2. Place the jar with ingredients in the pot.
  3. Use a low to medium flame, allow the ingredients to come to a temperate of 156 degrees Fahrenheit for 20 minutes. This process is referred to as “holding”. The purpose of holding the temperature for 20 minutes is to destroy bacteria
  4. DO NOT boil or Over Heat

In a separate heat proof container measure out Distilled Water (25 grams).  Cover as instructed in the above paragraph item #1. Heat as in the above paragraph items #2, #3 and #4.  This is the replacement water for the water that will evaporate during the water phase. If you do not use this water, do not throw it away. Allow it to cool and freeze for another project.

Oil Phase

  • BTMS or BTMS 25 (25 grams)
  • Lavender Infused Olive Oil (10 grams)
  • Argan Oil (10 grams)
  • Vitamin E (5 grams)
  1. Combine in heat proof container BTMS, Lavender Infused Olive Oil, Argan Oil and Vitamin E. To weight each ingredient appropriately follow the weighting and taring process illustrated in the Water Phase above
  2. Place container in water bath.
  3. Allow Oils to melt
  4. Heat Oil phase until BTMS is melted, try to keep the temperature around 140 degrees, but a bit higher is okay. (I find when working with small quantities the blend solidifies quickly.)

  • Combining Water and Oil Phases
  1. Once the Water Phase has been maintained for 20 minutes allow the Water Blend to cool down to 140 degrees Fahrenheit same temperature as the Oil Phase. Cooling down also applies to the 25 grams of distilled water. If the temperatures are off by 5-10 degrees things should still be okay. The blending of water and oil work best when temperature for both phases are the same or within a few degrees of each other.
  2. Place the empty bowl on the scale – Tare for zero weight
  3. Pour Water Phase Blend into the bowl. Due to evaporation the amount of water blend poured into the bowl is less than what you started with, see #5 under the Water Phase ( I started with 442 grams)
  4. Remember the additional 25 gram of water? Now is the time to use it. Add some of the distilled water to the Water Phase Blend in the bowl until the original weight of the Water Phase Blend is obtained. (If you do not add the additional water, the Hair Conditioner may be too thick for bottling, if that happens use a clean shatter proof jar for the conditioner instead.)
  5. Once the amount of Water Phase Blend is obtained place the Stick Blender into the bowl
  6. While pouring the Oil Phase Blend into the Water Phase Blend start slowly stick blending
  7. Continue to stick blend for several minutes. Scrape the side of the bowl with a spatula if necessary. The mixture will turn white. This means emulsion has occurred. This process only takes a few minutes. Water and Oils should not separate.

  • Cool Down Phase
  1. Check the temperature of the Hair Conditioner
  2. If over 120 degrees Fahrenheit, let he Hair Condition sit for a few minutes until the temperature comes down
  3. Add the Liquid Germall Plus (LGP) when the temperature is 120 degrees Fahrenheit or below. Any hotter than 120 degrees Fahrenheit, then the effectiveness LGP is compromised. Stir well or stick blend for a few short burst to ensure LGP is fully incorporated
  4. Add in your essential oil blend, gently stirring until fully incorporated
  5. Using a funnel or piping bag pour the Hair Conditioner into bottles. To avoid condensation in the bottle allow the Hair Condition to cool overnight.
  6. My yield 3 – 3.15oz bottles (blue), 8-1.15oz sample bottles (natural). Should have been a bit more, some got on the table not in the bottle.

  • Sometimes the process can be a little messy. A bit to clean up but not a lot
  • Place cap on bottle after Hair Conditioner has cooled
  • Label bottle, include product name, ingredients, how to use and best used by date

Thank you for taking the time to read this tutorial. A few more notes

  1. Depending on your hair type, the oils used may not be suitable; for example, Olive Oil may be too heavy for your hair. If that is the case change the oil to fit your hair type.
  2. If you try this recipe, let me know how you made out. I would like to hear your feedback
  3. If you decide to use this recipe for selling
  • Please follow Good Manufacturing Practices
  • Follow FDA Guidelines for correct product labeling and description

The 4 Uses:

  1. Use as a stay in conditioner after shampooing
  2. Use as a wash out conditioner after shampooing
  3. Use as a hair lotion for locs, twists, braids any natural hair style
  4. Use as a scalp moisturizer, a lot lighter than hair pomade

Standard Operating Procedures For Making Products

This post will be updated periodically as additional tips come to my attention. The steps provided are starting points.

As you read, if you see something I missed, send your bullet point to DeGanya-Aromatics-Blog@DeGanyaAromatics.com. With your permission I will reference your name, state and date comment provided in the next iteration of the post.

Here are some general rules for all types of products:

  • Make sure working surfaces and equipment are sanitized
  • Practice safety precautions as applicable to the product you are making
  • When measuring ingredients try to use ounces or grams rather than volume (teaspoon, tablespoon, cups and the like). Ounces or grams are more accurate measures of weight.
  • Remove distractions, (phone, pets, children, etc.)
  • Read your recipe several times
  • Prepare all ingredients before you start
  • Give yourself plenty of time to work, haste makes waste
  • Not sure how your ingredients will react, test recipe in a small batch
  • It is good to use others well documented recipes as a learning tool. Do not be afraid to experiment and take the recipe one or two steps further. Some call this “A Spin”, “A Twist”, “Enhancements”, I call it “Creativity”. I remember years ago BASF had a commercial that said “We do not make the product we make it better”.
  • If you are selling your products follow all labeling requirements as determined by the governing governmental agency
  • If you are selling your product make sure you have invested in the appropriate liability insurance
  • Do not make medical claims for your recipes, unless you are able to prove the claim through a fully document clinical trial. The long term ramification of such claims can be costly.
  • It’s okay if you do not like something you made, happens to me all the time
  • Something bombed out, it’s okay to cry
  • Laugh at your self
  • Have fun

Lavender Project: Part 1 – Lavender Herbal Infusion Oil

Curious about the Lavender Project

People all over the world love Lavender.  Lavender in its various forms, fresh buds, dried buds or essential oil offers a variety of uses for the spirit, soul and body.  Much of this has been lost in the urbanization of America.  Getting back to basics can be fun, educational and very healthy.

A few Lavender facts: 

Botanical Names: Lavandula officinalis, Lavandula angustifolia, Lavandula vera

Botanical Family:  Lamiaceae; Labiatae  known as the mint family, which includes: basil, bergamot, lemon balm, oregano, rosemary, peppermint and spearmint, to name a few.

Aroma:  Fresh and camphoraceous

Flowering Top Color:  range from pinkish all the way through violet with hints of indigo-blue

Grown: on every continent in the world

Essential Oil Color:  Range from colorless to pale-yellow or yellowish-green.

What is infusion?

Infusion is simply placing dried or fresh botanical in a medium (water, oil, alcohol, vinegar, honey etc.) to extract it properties. One of the simplest infusion done by millions of people every day is making a cup of tea.  Allowing the tea to steep in the water is called an infusion.

The aroma of the lavender being infused into the oil is awesome. The smell is earthy, warm and very relaxing.

Tips before Starting:

  • Make sure all equipment and workspace is sanitized
  • Set out all equipment and ingredients before starting
  • Read the recipe several times
  • Cut off your cell phone
  • Have Fun!

Equipment:

  • Crock Pot with Warm Setting
  • Blender or Grinder
  • Canning Jars or heat proof jars (these can be purchased at your local food store or Walmart)
  • Medium size glass or stainless bowl or paper plates
  • Gloves (optional)
  • Cheesecloth or a fine mesh strainer (both can be found in your local food markets in the cooking section)
  • Kitchen Scale
  • Measuring cups
  • Tablespoons
  • Jumbo wooden sticks or utensil for stirring
  • Clean glass bottle or jar for storing Lavender Infusion Oil
  • Small storage containers you can put in the freezer
  • Paper and pen or pencil
  • Blank Label
  • Rubber Band that can fit around the mouth of the canning jar

Ingredients/Recipe:

There are 28.394 grams in an ounce, to make things easier to compute we will use 30

To convert the recipe to grams, multiply number of ounces by 30

Grams are a more accurate measurement than ounces.

Ounces & Teaspoons

Grams

Ingredient
2 oz 60 Dried Lavender Buds
16 oz 480 Olive Oil –  You can substitute with a less expensive, different carrier oil such as Sweet Almond, Rice Bran, Sunflower, Apricot, etc., or use a combination that totals 16 oz. All carriers oils are not the same.
3 Teaspoons 12 Vitamin E – 1 teaspoon is approximately 4 grams

Directions:

  • Measure out dried lavender buds.

    • Grind dried lavender buds to a powdered like consistency
  • Three ways to infuse

  1.  Place oil and buds in the crock pot on the lowest (warm) setting, for 10 – 14 hours, stirring periodically, mixture should not boil. (Shown in picture)
  2. In an empty canning jar add oil and buds. Leave a 2 inch space at the top of the jar for breathing room. Cover the mouth of the jar with cling wrap. Put tap water in the empty crock pot. When the canning jar is placed inside the crock pot the water level  will be  1/2  way  up the side of the jar.  Use the lowest setting (warm), check the water level periodically, let mixture infuse for 14-16 hours.
  3. No crock pot?   Use a double boiler on the stove, lowest flame, for 8- 10 hours. Stir periodically and continuously watch water in the double boiler. Do not allow water to come in contact with the mixture.
  4. Allow mixture to cool, overnight is fine.
  • Separating the infused oil from the lavender buds

    1. Remove all jewelry, put in a safe place. Wash hands well. Because the oil is slippery gloves tend to fall off.
    2. Get a clean jar, weight the empty jar jot down the weight.
    3. Get a clean  glass or stainless steel bow or paper plates, set aside.
    4. Place the cheesecloth over the empty canning jar.  The cheesecloth should fit loosely over the mouth  of the jar sagging downwards like a filter. Use a rubber band to the hold the cheesecloth in place if necessary.  Taking your time, pour the infused oil slowly and carefully into the cheesecloth to drain into the empty canning jar. The oil will flow freely, the lavender buds will be sitting at the bottom of the jar. In the above picture I used a combination of a strainer and cheesecloth.
    5. Using a spoon, place manageable scoops of lavender buds from the jar into the cheesecloth. I like to call the residue from squeezing the oil out of the cheesecloth ” Lavender Herbal Goodness”.  Fold the cheesecloth making a pocket and squeeze the excess oil into the jar. This can get really messy (nothing a little Dawn Dish Washing Liquid cannot get rid of).
    6. Once you have squeezed out as much oil as possible  place the Lavender Herbal Goodness in the glass bowl or paper plates you set aside. If using paper plates use multiple plates because the remaining oil will seep through the plate. At this point you can toss, compose or save and try a few of the upcoming recipes.

  • Let the Lavender Infused Oil sit overnight. This will allow the residue to settle in the bottom of jar.

  • This is a good time to weigh your Lavender Infusion Oil. The equation is–
    (Weight of Jar with Lavender Infused Oil in it) – (Weight of Empty Jar) = Weight of Infused Lavender Oil
  • If you see residue in the bottom of the jar repeat the straining process again using  cheesecloth to ensure the oil free from  residue.

  • Weigh the oil again .  Do you see a decrease in the amount of oil?  You may need to repeat the straining process several times before the infused lavender oil is free from residue.

You should have approximately 8.5-10 oz ounces of Lavender Infused Oil

For every ounce of Lavender Infused Oil  add ½ teaspoon of Vitamin E as an antioxidant

Pour  Lavender Infusion Oil in clean glass bottle or jar. Label the outside of the jar with product name, date made and best to use by.  Date to use by will be the expiration date of the Olive Oil.

Keep oil in a dark cool place until ready to use.

Infused lavender oil  is green not purple. Are your surprised?

Rewards and Benefits

Lavender Infusion Oil makes a wonderful massage oil, excellent bath oil, and a great base for other natural products that we will discuss in future blog articles

 

What to do with the Lavender Herbal Goodness in the bowl?

Using the small freezer containers, place 1-2 tablespoons of the Lavender Herbal Goodness in the container, noting on the top or side  of the container, the date made and how much is in the container.

  • Refrigerate a couple of the containers if you plan on using within the month, after reviewing a few of the simple Lavender Herbal Goodness recipes
  • Freeze any leftovers for future usage. You will need to thaw out the Lavender Herbal Goodness before using it in a recipe

Stay tuned for recipes using Lavender Infusion Oil and Lavender Herbal Goodness

Citrus & Mint Body Scrub

Why Make Your Own Body Scrub?

  • Saves money
  • It’s fun
  • Releases your creativity
  • Control over what you are using on your body
  • Increase confidence in trying to do new things
  • Gifts ideas created from the heart

Using a scrub is great for removing dead skin cells from the body and moisturizing at the same time. When dead cells are moved this makes room for new cells to regenerate, giving the skin a youthful glow and making it feel softer. Gently scrubbing is known to increase the circulation of bodily fluids, and many believe that body scrubs are good for making cellulite skin look smoother; especially those made with ground coffee.

Citrus & Mint Body Scrub

 The combination of citrus and peppermint will brighten your day no matter what time of day or night you decide to slough off those unwanted dead skin cells. The smells will make you say, “Ahhh….. I feel great!!”

Treat yourself with kindness after a hard day. You deserve it!!

Ingredients:

  • Sea Salt (fine)
  • Himalayan Sea Salt (fine)
  • Apricot Oil
  • Sunflower Oil
  • Shea Nut Oil
  • Mango Butter
  • Essential Oils: Sweet Orange, Grapefruit, and Peppermint
  • Vitamin E
  • Preservative – optional. Oil based products do not require preservatives. The prservative is used in the event water gets into the product. To avoid exposure to water, scoop out the amount of the product to be used into a separate container. Leave the unused portion outside the shower.

 Equipment:

  •  Bowls – glass or stainless steel
  • Bow Cover or Cling Wrap
  • Utensils for stirring/mixing
  • Glass Dropper or Pipette (a dispensing tool used in laboratories for transporting liquids, can be purchased from Michael’s or Amazon)
  • Heat proof measuring cup
  • Double Boiler or Microwave
  • Heat proof gloves
  • Clean shatter proof container and lid for packaging
  • Blank label (include scrub’s name, list of ingredients used in weight order, friendly reminder to avoid contaminating with water, “best used by” date (Most likely the product will be used up long before that date, list oil with the expiration date first)
  • Don’t have a blank label? Here’s what I did. Print the required information on a plain white sheet of paper, use clear packing tape to adhere the label to the jar.

Recipe:

Read through the recipe and directions several times before starting.

There are 28.394 grams in an ounce, to make things easier to compute we will use 30 (rounding).

To convert the recipe to grams, multiply number of ounces by 30.

Ounces Grams Ingredient
8 ounces 240 Sea Salt  – known for detoxification and contains minerals which can have a therapeutic effect on the body

 

Do not substitute with table salt which makes the skin very dry

2 ounces 60 Himalayan Pink Sea Salt ( or substitute  2oz. Sea Salt)
.5 ounces 15 Apricot Oil – fast absorbing, loaded with oleic (omega 3)  and linoleic (omega 9)  acids, light to the touch, leaves skin feeling smooth and silky
.5 ounces 15 Sunflower Oil – lightweight oil, a natural emollient, known for its ability to help the skin to retain moisture.
.5 ounces 15 Shea Nut Oil  – by product of Shea butter, absorbs quickly and makes the skin feel luxurious
.5 ounces 15 Mango Butter – rich in Vitamins A & C. Skin encourager for  fighting off dry skin
1  teaspoons 4 Vitamin E – known for helping with dry skin and acts as an antioxidant in oil based products

Essential Oil Blend:

The essential oil blend is based on standard measurements for safe use as determined by National Association of Aromatherapist (NAHA) https://naha.org/explore-aromatherapy/about-aromatherapy/methods-of-application and from one of the world’s foremost authority on Aromatherapy, Valerie Gennari Cooksley. In the back of her book Aromatherapy: A Lifetime Guide to Healing with Essential Oils  there’s a wonderful chart for basic essential oils dilution.

Different strokes for different folks.

Fragrant Strength Light Medium Strong
Essential Oils Drops Drops Drops
Sweet Orange (Citrus sinensis) 8 15 30
Grapefruit (Citrus paradisi) 4 9 18
Peppermint  (Mentha piperita) 6 12 24
Total Blend 18 36 72

 Before you begin make sure all surfaces and equipment are thoroughly washed. Using a 10% bleach solution, (this is a 1:10 ratio; for example 1 Tablespoon of bleach + 10 Tablespoons of water or ¼ cup of bleach + 2.5 cups of water is a 10% bleach solution) makes an excellent disinfectant for sanitizing.  There are numerous sources on the internet that provide additional information for making and using the solution.  Make sure all surfaces and equipment are well rinsed before using. Use gloves to protect your hands and a face mask if you are sensitive to smells or have lung concerns.

Directions:

  1. In a small bowl create the essential oil blend; then set aside
  2. In a medium bowl measure out and combine salts; then set aside
  3. In a measuring cup combine oils and Vitamin E; then set aside     
  4. Melt Mango Butter in double boiler or microwave (use glass container), making sure butter does not burn. It just needs to be melted. Be careful when handling the container. The container will be hot.   
  5. Combine oils and butter; mix well.              
  6. Blend oil mixture, salts and essential oils, mix well.       
  7. When thoroughly blended, cover bowl,  set aside for 30 minutes to marinate After marinating is complete, check for consistency. If too oily, add a bit more salt, starting with 1 Tablespoon at a time.  If too dry add a bit more oil using a combination of (Apricot, Sunflower and Shea Nut, 1 Tablespoon at a time)
  8. Spoon Citrus & Mint Body Scrub into  clean shatter proof container       
  9. Create Label                                                                   
  10. Go for it, use it !!!!

How to Use:

In the shower wet the body.  Apply scrub in small amounts using circular motions. Rinse well, pat dry

Avoid getting water into the container.  Water is a host for bacteria.

Be careful. Surface of the shower or tub may become slippery.  Add this information to your container, I forgot to add it to mine, Darn!!

Things to Remember:

  • Do not used salt based scrubs on freshly shaved body parts, sunburned skin, irritated skin and broken skin
  • Scrub contains oil, may make shower slippery, be careful when exiting the shower. Thoroughly clean bathing area when you are finished.
  • If you intend to make the scrub again make sure you keep accurate notes
  • If you decide to use this recipe for selling
    1. Please follow Good Manufacturing Practices
    2. Follow FDA Guidelines for correct product labeling and description 
    3. Add a perseverance, note Vitamin E is not a preservative. The most commonly used preservatives for oil based products are Phenonip, Germaben II and Optiphen. You can purchase these from Lotioncrafter, Wholesales Supplies Plus, Camden Grey, Brambleberry, Amazon and a heap of other places.