Lemongrass Eucalyptus Lemon Body Soap – Cold Process/Heat Transfer Method

For the 2019 Pittsburgh’s Soaper Gathering I was blessed to be a presenter.  For my presentation I demonstrated the Cold Process soaping method known by many as Heat Transfer or Thermal Transfer.  For the first two years of my soaping career this was the only method I knew. At that time it was called The Room Temperature Method.

I think for any beginner Soaper this is the easiest and simplest method to use.

My recipe is presented in percentages, PPO (per pound of oil) and parts, this makes it easier for you to adjust the recipe based on your needs. If you decide to use my recipe, please run it through one of the many free on-line soap calculators.

Depending on your learning style you may prefer the YouTube video over the written post. Click on the link to access the video     https://youtu.be/jmwRWtqC5S0

GENERAL ASSUMPTION:

  1. You are knowledgeable of soap making processes, procedures, equipment requirements, safety precautions and cleanliness.
  2. You know how to use a soap calculator to determine the amount of Distilled Water and Sodium Hydroxide (lye) needed to make this soap.
  3. If you are not comfortable using water discount, you know how to convert to full water (Water-to-Oil ratio equals 38%)
  4. I have a standard policy. No matter where or from whom I obtain a soap-making recipe I always run it through a soap calculator. I hope you make this your policy too.

EQUIPMENT:

  • Two bowls – heavy plastic or stainless steel
  • Grinder
  • Whisk
  • Stick Blender
  • Mold
  • Towels
  • Spatulas – I find silicone are the best
  • Mesh strainer or cheesecloth
  • Bowls/jars for botanicals and essential oil blend
  • Measuring Spoons

 RECIPE:

Base Oils:

  • Castor Oil                             5%
  • Olive Oil                               15%
  • Rice Bran Oil                      13%
  • Sunflower Oil                     13%
  • *Red Palm Butter            34%
  • Coconut Oil 76 °              20%

*Red Palm is used in many parts of the world for cooking and is considered a superfood

*Can substitute Red Palm with Lard, Beef Tallow, Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, and Babassu Oil.

Babassu Oil can be a substituted for coconut oil. The properties are similar.

Additives:

  • Colloidal Oatmeal 1 Tablespoon, PPO
  • Coconut Milk Powder 1 Tablespoon, PPO
  • Sea Salt (snack or extra fine) 1 teaspoon, PPO
  • Sugar-Cane 1 teaspoon, PPO
  • Rosemary Antioxidant (ROE) 1-2 drops, PPO
  • Lemongrass leaves ¼ teaspoon, PPO
  • Eucalyptus leaves ¼ teaspoon, PPO
  • Lemongrass (India)-Essential Oil – 6 parts (0.5 oz PPO)
  • Eucalyptus Lemon- Essential Oil – 3 parts (0.5 oz PPO)
  • Arrowroot Powder 1 teaspoon, PPO

Lye and Water Ratios:

  • Superfat or Lye Discount                    8%
  • Water-to-Oil                                       26.70%
  • Lye Concentration                           33.33%
  • Water-to-Lye Ratio:                        2.0000:1

INSTRUCTIONS:

 Botanicals:

Lemongrass and Eucalyptus leaves are ground until the leaves are fine… almost like powder. Place leaves in a bowl or jar, using enough distilled water to cover leaves, and soak for at least 30 minutes. This can be done hours in advance.

Essential Oils:

Blend with Arrowroot Powder. Sit aside at least 30 minutes for full absorption. This can be prepared days in advance. If doing days in advance, be sure to store in a glass container with a non-rubber top and keep away from the heat and sun.

Distilled Water:

Dissolve sugar and salt and set aside until it is time to add the lye

Soft and Hard Oils are in separate containers.

Soft Oils:

Add in ROE and stir well

Add in Colloidal Oatmeal, using stick blender and blend well, until there are no lumps

Add in Coconut Milk Powder, using stick blender and blend well until there are no lumps.

Using cheesecloth or fine mesh strain, separate the water waste from the ground leaves. Discard the water. Add the leaves to the soft oil, using a stick blender and blend well until leaves are complete disbursed.

Hard Oils:

Break into small pieces to ensure the Lye Water melts oils completely

LET’S MAKE SOAP:

Add Lye to distilled water with dissolved sugar and salt. Stir until lye water is clear

Add Lye Water to Hard Oils and hand stir make sure they are fully melted

Add Soft Oils with additives to melted Hard Oils and Lye Water

Stick blend to emulsion

Add in essential oil blend and hand stir or whisk well. The soap will move fast due to the water discount. No need for a stick blender

Once soap comes to a light to medium trace, pour into mold

Optional – Texture top when soap gets thick, or leave as is

Spray top of soap with 91% alcohol to help prevent soda ash

Wrap soap in towels or blankets to keep soap warm

Unmold soap 24-48 hours

Cut soap in 1-inch squares or as desired

Leave soap to cure 3-6 weeks in a well-ventilated area and away from the sun.

Standard Operating Procedures For Making Products

This post will be updated periodically as additional tips come to my attention. The steps provided are starting points.

As you read, if you see something I missed, send your bullet point to DeGanya-Aromatics-Blog@DeGanyaAromatics.com. With your permission I will reference your name, state and date comment provided in the next iteration of the post.

Here are some general rules for all types of products:

  • Make sure working surfaces and equipment are sanitized
  • Practice safety precautions as applicable to the product you are making
  • When measuring ingredients try to use ounces or grams rather than volume (teaspoon, tablespoon, cups and the like). Ounces or grams are more accurate measures of weight.
  • Remove distractions, (phone, pets, children, etc.)
  • Read your recipe several times
  • Prepare all ingredients before you start
  • Give yourself plenty of time to work, haste makes waste
  • Not sure how your ingredients will react, test recipe in a small batch
  • It is good to use others well documented recipes as a learning tool. Do not be afraid to experiment and take the recipe one or two steps further. Some call this “A Spin”, “A Twist”, “Enhancements”, I call it “Creativity”. I remember years ago BASF had a commercial that said “We do not make the product we make it better”.
  • If you are selling your products follow all labeling requirements as determined by the governing governmental agency
  • If you are selling your product make sure you have invested in the appropriate liability insurance
  • Do not make medical claims for your recipes, unless you are able to prove the claim through a fully document clinical trial. The long term ramification of such claims can be costly.
  • It’s okay if you do not like something you made, happens to me all the time
  • Something bombed out, it’s okay to cry
  • Laugh at your self
  • Have fun

Citrus & Mint Body Scrub

Why Make Your Own Body Scrub?

  • Saves money
  • It’s fun
  • Releases your creativity
  • Control over what you are using on your body
  • Increase confidence in trying to do new things
  • Gifts ideas created from the heart

Using a scrub is great for removing dead skin cells from the body and moisturizing at the same time. When dead cells are moved this makes room for new cells to regenerate, giving the skin a youthful glow and making it feel softer. Gently scrubbing is known to increase the circulation of bodily fluids, and many believe that body scrubs are good for making cellulite skin look smoother; especially those made with ground coffee.

Citrus & Mint Body Scrub

 The combination of citrus and peppermint will brighten your day no matter what time of day or night you decide to slough off those unwanted dead skin cells. The smells will make you say, “Ahhh….. I feel great!!”

Treat yourself with kindness after a hard day. You deserve it!!

Ingredients:

  • Sea Salt (fine)
  • Himalayan Sea Salt (fine)
  • Apricot Oil
  • Sunflower Oil
  • Shea Nut Oil
  • Mango Butter
  • Essential Oils: Sweet Orange, Grapefruit, and Peppermint
  • Vitamin E
  • Preservative – optional. Oil based products do not require preservatives. The prservative is used in the event water gets into the product. To avoid exposure to water, scoop out the amount of the product to be used into a separate container. Leave the unused portion outside the shower.

 Equipment:

  •  Bowls – glass or stainless steel
  • Bow Cover or Cling Wrap
  • Utensils for stirring/mixing
  • Glass Dropper or Pipette (a dispensing tool used in laboratories for transporting liquids, can be purchased from Michael’s or Amazon)
  • Heat proof measuring cup
  • Double Boiler or Microwave
  • Heat proof gloves
  • Clean shatter proof container and lid for packaging
  • Blank label (include scrub’s name, list of ingredients used in weight order, friendly reminder to avoid contaminating with water, “best used by” date (Most likely the product will be used up long before that date, list oil with the expiration date first)
  • Don’t have a blank label? Here’s what I did. Print the required information on a plain white sheet of paper, use clear packing tape to adhere the label to the jar.

Recipe:

Read through the recipe and directions several times before starting.

There are 28.394 grams in an ounce, to make things easier to compute we will use 30 (rounding).

To convert the recipe to grams, multiply number of ounces by 30.

Ounces Grams Ingredient
8 ounces 240 Sea Salt  – known for detoxification and contains minerals which can have a therapeutic effect on the body

 

Do not substitute with table salt which makes the skin very dry

2 ounces 60 Himalayan Pink Sea Salt ( or substitute  2oz. Sea Salt)
.5 ounces 15 Apricot Oil – fast absorbing, loaded with oleic (omega 3)  and linoleic (omega 9)  acids, light to the touch, leaves skin feeling smooth and silky
.5 ounces 15 Sunflower Oil – lightweight oil, a natural emollient, known for its ability to help the skin to retain moisture.
.5 ounces 15 Shea Nut Oil  – by product of Shea butter, absorbs quickly and makes the skin feel luxurious
.5 ounces 15 Mango Butter – rich in Vitamins A & C. Skin encourager for  fighting off dry skin
1  teaspoons 4 Vitamin E – known for helping with dry skin and acts as an antioxidant in oil based products

Essential Oil Blend:

The essential oil blend is based on standard measurements for safe use as determined by National Association of Aromatherapist (NAHA) https://naha.org/explore-aromatherapy/about-aromatherapy/methods-of-application and from one of the world’s foremost authority on Aromatherapy, Valerie Gennari Cooksley. In the back of her book Aromatherapy: A Lifetime Guide to Healing with Essential Oils  there’s a wonderful chart for basic essential oils dilution.

Different strokes for different folks.

Fragrant Strength Light Medium Strong
Essential Oils Drops Drops Drops
Sweet Orange (Citrus sinensis) 8 15 30
Grapefruit (Citrus paradisi) 4 9 18
Peppermint  (Mentha piperita) 6 12 24
Total Blend 18 36 72

 Before you begin make sure all surfaces and equipment are thoroughly washed. Using a 10% bleach solution, (this is a 1:10 ratio; for example 1 Tablespoon of bleach + 10 Tablespoons of water or ¼ cup of bleach + 2.5 cups of water is a 10% bleach solution) makes an excellent disinfectant for sanitizing.  There are numerous sources on the internet that provide additional information for making and using the solution.  Make sure all surfaces and equipment are well rinsed before using. Use gloves to protect your hands and a face mask if you are sensitive to smells or have lung concerns.

Directions:

  1. In a small bowl create the essential oil blend; then set aside
  2. In a medium bowl measure out and combine salts; then set aside
  3. In a measuring cup combine oils and Vitamin E; then set aside     
  4. Melt Mango Butter in double boiler or microwave (use glass container), making sure butter does not burn. It just needs to be melted. Be careful when handling the container. The container will be hot.   
  5. Combine oils and butter; mix well.              
  6. Blend oil mixture, salts and essential oils, mix well.       
  7. When thoroughly blended, cover bowl,  set aside for 30 minutes to marinate After marinating is complete, check for consistency. If too oily, add a bit more salt, starting with 1 Tablespoon at a time.  If too dry add a bit more oil using a combination of (Apricot, Sunflower and Shea Nut, 1 Tablespoon at a time)
  8. Spoon Citrus & Mint Body Scrub into  clean shatter proof container       
  9. Create Label                                                                   
  10. Go for it, use it !!!!

How to Use:

In the shower wet the body.  Apply scrub in small amounts using circular motions. Rinse well, pat dry

Avoid getting water into the container.  Water is a host for bacteria.

Be careful. Surface of the shower or tub may become slippery.  Add this information to your container, I forgot to add it to mine, Darn!!

Things to Remember:

  • Do not used salt based scrubs on freshly shaved body parts, sunburned skin, irritated skin and broken skin
  • Scrub contains oil, may make shower slippery, be careful when exiting the shower. Thoroughly clean bathing area when you are finished.
  • If you intend to make the scrub again make sure you keep accurate notes
  • If you decide to use this recipe for selling
    1. Please follow Good Manufacturing Practices
    2. Follow FDA Guidelines for correct product labeling and description 
    3. Add a perseverance, note Vitamin E is not a preservative. The most commonly used preservatives for oil based products are Phenonip, Germaben II and Optiphen. You can purchase these from Lotioncrafter, Wholesales Supplies Plus, Camden Grey, Brambleberry, Amazon and a heap of other places.